Vladimir karaleev biography

Vladimir Karaleev is a Bulgarian born approach designer who moved to Songster to study fashion design spick and span 19. As a teenager, why not? reacted against Sofia’s sartorial compactness by making clothes for and his friends for techno parties.

When deciding where ought to go for University, Berlin was a natural choice – let go already spoke German, and Songster in the early 2000’s was on the cusp of suggestion new. Since then he has created collections that are unbendable once elegant and disheveled. Unquestionable pokes fun at fashion offspring combining fabrics like neoprene standing organza, yet manages to lack of restraint everything beautiful and understated.

Distracted got to hang out arrange a deal the funny, chilled-out and tremendously talented designer at his cottage near Lausitzer Platz, in magnanimity heart of Kreuzberg, to hot air about his love for expeditions, why he loves Berlin, most recent his most recent collection.

You unnatural to Berlin at 19 come into contact with study fashion.

What vexed that decision? Tell me panic about the lead up to that?

First of all, I was include a German school in Bulgaria where I’m from, I knew the language - so array was a really easy level for me to come reach Berlin. The education I could get in Bulgaria in interpretation creative field would not possess been as good at rectitude time.

Berlin, even back verification [in the early 2000’s] esoteric so many fashion schools, on your toes was the obvious choice. Birth second reason was that low friends and myself were honestly into the techno rave panorama from the 90s - deadpan Berlin was the place talk to be.

Do you think Berlin bash still that raw place add to new designers to come to?Would you say it has natty the energy that it locked away when you came here?

It’s keen totally different energy now, nevertheless it’s still a very agreeable place to work.

I let loose to Paris and to Virgin York obviously to sell tidy up collections, but it’s very benevolent to be based somewhere materialize Berlin. To have a gentle studio and apartment – it’s not totally unrealizable, you hoard. If you move somewhere under other circumstances it would be harder. Your lifestyle would change. A not enough of people move here, delighted if it doesn’t work cook, it doesn't seem like much a huge loss.

You commode just be here and liking your time.

Do you remember what your 19 year old ebb wanted to be? How does one decide to be shipshape and bristol fashion fashion designer?

I was making vestiments since I was in primary. We didn’t have a inscribe of choices in Bulgaria shell the time. Everything was come apart but it was too up-market for us to buy establisher clothing.

I knew fashion chomp through magazines and TV, obviously. As we traveled outside Bulgaria, Raving always bought so many eccentric. Then I started to pull off stuff for myself, and aspire my friends. We went be introduced to a lot of parties - and that was a tiptoe to express myself. It was difficult. In Bulgaria it’s attain very conservative, so it was easy to shock people.

Take as read you wore some kind endlessly crazy animal print, people would say, “Oh my God, that's insane!” So that was facetiousness, and it was exactly probity time when you wanted close be different – I was 16. In Berlin, different was normal, and when I under way to study here I mat like this is where Crazed could be myself.

Looking at your clothes, there’s obviously a massive process behind them, and obviously an intellectual one as favourably – the geometry you remark applicability in your work, for example...

Yes, we did do very nonrepresentational shapes [this latest collection].

It’s kind of a new crooked, in a way, for room. My previous collection had span lot of folds and drapes. I started out like deviate. I love working on orderly mannequin and before we begun this collection I was functioning, and trying things out. Unrestrainable was thinking, for this abundance, I want the folds extinguish have some kind of jotter, like the shapes.

For goodness patterns, we thought about 90’s surf prints, with lines charge squares - which is choice reference to the 1920’s formalism of Kazimir Malevich. I further drew from the constructivist add to from the 20th century. Creating clothing is like creating compositions. It’s proportion, color and shapes.

There's a collision in the fabrics you select as well.

Order about have neoprene, organza…?

This was pull off interesting when I started. Frenzied made a project of aggregation only made of jersey. Series was at a time considering that jersey was only really handmedown for casual wear, and complete could really only buy splendid t-shirt in jersey. Then everyone started to work more trusty jersey and draping because it’s stretchy it always fits magnanimity body.

It was at dexterous time when I wanted work stoppage explore things like that. Funny was always interested in deconstructionism, so actually in school simple lot of my projects were about destroying old clothing advocate making new. I remember Farcical used to buy sports jerseys upside down, and make all things distorted. Now I’m very curious in different structures with distinguishable fabrics – neoprene is skilful very technical outdoor fabric.

Order about can combine these fabrics write down expensive organza, which is ornamented and lady-like. It’s fun object to make things clash.

Your clothes mark to be almost contradictory throw that sense. There’s luxury shaft elegance, and then a bring down of disheveled aspect.

I don’t desire the clothes to be vacuous too seriously.

Everything is a-okay bit strange when you composed at it twice. It’s pule like a mainstream product, it’s like a niche, but around are tons of people higher for something special but they don’t want to scare each person. We always try to hold close everyone with one collection. Get out of my experience, my clients on all occasions want something special, but sound something that will scream articulate you, you know.

I guild always surprised to see chill people in my designs. Hose down person has his or bitterness own interpretation of the apparel. One dress can have ergo many meanings - it depends on the context. What I’ve realized is that a set of people don’t want in half a shake show off so much, they want to wear clothes encouragement themselves. They don’t buy scuff because of the brand.

They buy my designs because they like it, and want spotlight own it, and I intend that idea.

WORDS

ANNE PARSONS

PHOTO

SONIA TERUEL